Liechtenstein is different ...
‚n New York Central Station, a young girl helped us to buy
tickets and during the journey to Stamford she started talk-
ing. Yes, she knew Liechtenstein, The little town — now what
was it called — Vaduz, yes Vaduz, she liked Vaduz very much.
The castle with the beautiful courtyard (I started), the narrow
streets with the pretty little antique houses ... No, that
couldn’t be Vaduz. Heidelberg, that’s right, Heidelberg!
That’s the name of the town. Everything in Europe is so close
together that it is very easy to get two places mixed up. But
this young lady really had been in Vaduz. Now it all came
sack to her: She had had coffee there, somewhat expensive,
‘hat she could remember; and there’s a castle there too.
Vaduz castle, coffee, post cards, a few stamps: what other
mpressions does a traveller — a tourist — take home with him?
Every year during the season when the big busses fill the
parking lots and the camera-clad passengers crowd the streets
nd taverns, these are for many the only memories of
Liechtenstein; because Liechtenstein is staged in Vaduz, be-
tween the town hall and the parish church. If one has been
‘here, one has seen all there is to see and can head for the next
destination.
But the real Liechtenstein is different. Even if tourism is a
branch of the small principality’s economy, which is not to be
underestimated, the country itself has very little to do with
zourism. The real state begins only a few steps away from the
:entre of tourism, not a dream land, where it is always Sun-
lay, but a modern state with democratic administration, an
elected parliament with 25 members of parliament, a govern-
ment and a head of state, the sovereign, who along with the
people, has a strong position in this constitutional hereditary
monarchy. Article 2 of the Constitution dated 1921 states
“The supreme power is embodied in the sovereign and in the
seople” and Liechtenstein has always fared well with this divi-
sion of supreme power.
Thanks to astute politics, especially after the Second World
War, it was possible to bring industry into the country. The
positive attitude of the nation towards purchase and property
esulting from the Alemanni character creates the basis for a
avourable economic climate. Prosperity and wealth are
argely regarded as the fruits of hard work and ability. In this
espect industry and trade have become the supporting pillars
f today’s high standard of living and not the stamps and
ourism. In spite of the “Post Box Companies”, which have
10w and again been subject to a somewhat dubious reputa-
ion, the citizens of Liechtenstein do pay their taxes, even
hough they may not be as high as in other countries. Since
he country has had no military force since 1868, the relevant
:osts do not occur, and even if high costs do occur in other
ıreas ~ e.g. for the construction and maintenance of moun-
‘ain roads, for education etc, Liechtenstein is amongst those
states without a national debt, and can usually place finances
in reserve at the end of the financial year.
Then is Liechtenstein really a kind of “fairy tale” land? For
hose who travel through the country with their eyes open,
‘he great number of industrial and service sector businesses
ell another story. There is a combination of native efficiency
nd foreign capital, and many more than one large business
wave their origins in the pioneering spirit of Liechtenstein.
fowever, there is another Liechtenstein, the Liechtenstein
vhich holds the native population as well as the guests
pellbound. Even though the country itself does only have lit-
le to offer along the lines of historical locations and notable
wildings, and although some of these rarities fell victim to
he post-war building boom, it is the varied landscape,
vhich, irrespective of the season, has the power to inspire
gain and again.
The Rhine valley plain takes up approximately one third of
he whole state, the rest is mountainous territory. This is gen-
rally regarded as being the recreational area, although the
ralley does have its own beauty to show. The Schellenberg,
fficially known as Eschnerberg, located in the North, can be
ambled on well-kept and well-signposted routes. This net-
vork of walks and rambling routes is called the “Historical
Mountain Route”. At some special locations, boards provide
nformation concerning geology, flora and fauna and the his-
ory of the site in question. The lowlands of Liechtenstein,
he main area of which is formed by the Schellenberg, is the
Liechtenstein connoisseurs’ secret tip. In spite of an altitude
of over 650 metres, the area is regarded as part of the valley.
As opposed to the real mountains in the country, the area is
een in the eyes of the population as being a mere range of low
lls.
che real mountains are situated in the East: The Three Sister
“hain, which divides the highly populated Rhine valley from
he mountain valleys of the Liechtenstein Alps, as well as the
ransverse valley of the Lawenabach, in which rock peaks of
1p to 3000 metres and the massifs of the true alpine region,
rreviously only used in summer for agricultural purposes,
aan be found. The town of Steg, with its ancient settlement
orm consisting of two housing quadrants, and above all the
Jpine valley basin of Malbun, have been made accessible for
ourist traffic since the building of the tunnel in 1947 and the
‘onstruction of the roadway from Vaduz via Triesenberg.
¥hilst Steg, with its idyllic chapel has remained largely
touched by tourism, much has changed in Malbun. Where
mee a modest spa-hotel received its few summer guests and
‘he farmers of Triesenberg stored their alpine hay in primitive
vooden huts for the winter, one now finds tourists crowding
n the summer and novice and expert skiers on the particularly
‘uitable ski-slopes in the winter.
3ut even here the other face of Liechtenstein can be found. To
se able to find it, one needs to be a persistent hiker and to
1ave a good pair of shoes. Since the whole of the Liechtenstein
pine region has been declared a floral sanctuary, one doesn’t
1ave to be a botanist to be able to enjoy the multitude of flow-
rs. With a little luck one may even discover a chamois or a
amily of marmots or maybe even a golden eagle circling high
sverhead.
Chere are various ways of conquering this mountain world on
oot, There are paths, which can be walked without risk, even
vith children; other routes demand surefootedness and a