LIECHTENSTEIN IN ALTEN SCHILDERUNGEN NORBERT W. HASLER stance and Germany passes the whole land in re- view. The passenger on the train to Innsbruck and the Tyrol or the triweekly Orient Express rides the rails that separate Liechtenstein into highlands and low. Schaan, express stop and metropolis, has plate- glass Windows in which ready-made gowns in late styles are displayed, though the women usually spend their money for durable ginghams. One shop- keeper has tempted fate by keeping modern millinery. My homely inn at Vaduz might not please fastidi- ous travelers. The only running water was in a stone trough outside my window. Yet I look back on it with longing. What if the lower hall was a thoroughfare for half the town! Even so humble a capital must have its Peacock Alley. The bed was clean and com- fortable. The food, too rieh and plentiful for all but active folk, was designed to satisfy one who had car- ried heavy apparatus along mountain trails. From the first day, one becomes a Citizen. Man, maid, and child, all look one over with keen, but friendly appraisal. And what a delight it is to pass this informal inspection and be greeted with the password, «Grüss Gott,» usually shortened to «Sgott,» with neighborliness compressed even into that short syllable! It is impossible to remain a stranger. Some freck- led towhead, pushing his sisters in a rude but sturdy little cart, breaks the ice with a smile and a «Sgott.» His mother then exchanges a word or two, and be- fore one has reached the corner she has told your nationality and business to the village barber. By evening one has not a secret left. «He has had a hot bath at the Grüneck every night since he came,» said a voice in the dark during the weekly movie. It may have referred to some one eise, but I was glad that I had been liberal with my laundry. The main street of Vaduz is part of the post-auto- mobile route which runs along the length of the land. Below the castle the town broadens into the piain and up the slope. Northward there is space be- tween the houses for good-sized vineyards, beside which several foreigners have built charming villas with a wonderful view of the upper Rhine Valley. 
Church and State are friendly neighbors here. High above the little capi- tal, the Burg Vaduz, local home of Prince Johann II, also serves as a museum. In the valley is the Vaduz Church. Between the mountains and the Rhine, the piain which makes up agricultural Liechtenstein is as level as a floor and is protected by a dike, over which the Rhine swept September 26,1927, caus- ing great damage. 213